Walking on Madeira by Paddy Dillon

Author:Paddy Dillon
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9781783626601
Publisher: Lightning Source Inc.
Published: 2018-09-27T16:00:00+00:00

The path is fenced, though not too exposed, but the parapet needs care. Part of the parapet is avoided by switching to a lower path. The way is partly fenced while winding across a steep slope to the next tunnel. Slabs cover part of the levada and the tunnel is short and curved. Continue across long, steep slopes and cliffs, well-vegetated in places, but quite exposed in other places. A pronounced turn leads into a huge green gully. This is Caldeirão Verde, where a path leads up to a fine slender waterfall spilling into a large pool. The waymarked trail ends at this point, but adventurous explorers with a head for heights can delve further into the valley to reach the Caldeirão do Inferno.

Note that the path gets rougher further along and the fencing isn’t always in good order. Leave Caldeirão Verde to pick a way across a fenced slope to leave the green gully. Turn round beside a big stump of rock to re-enter the main valley. Continue across an unfenced slope, then pass some tattered fencing. When the levada channel narrows, go down a path and cross a stony slope, then head up on the other side. After passing tall til trees, watch for a badly-eroded flight of steps up to the left.

Climb around 200 steps, though there may have been twice that number at one time. Take care as the slope is steep and rugged, reaching a flat area beside a higher levada at a junction of three tunnels. Don’t go through the tunnel on the left, except maybe for the view. The tunnel straight ahead has railway lines and leads deep beneath Pico Ruivo to reach the generating station at Fajã da Nogueira (see Walk 14). Enter this tunnel, but immediately turn right through a very short tunnel and pass a wide, deep water tank to continue.

Walk along an uneven and exposed path to find a waterfall pouring down in front of another short tunnel. Go through this and immediately turn round into the next tunnel. This is long and bendy with a good path and good headroom. Later, there is plenty of headroom but the path is wet. Towards the end, the roof is rather lower and the path is stony. Walk along an even, but unfenced parapet and take care if it is wet and slippery. The final tunnel is bendy and rumbles ominously, featuring a stony path and low headroom. Although the exit can’t be seen at first, there are a few ‘windows’ looking out into a deep, dark, narrow, green gorge. The rumbling noise becomes louder as you climb out of the tunnel to find two waterfalls thundering down into the gorge at Caldeirão do Inferno. Admire them, but obviously there is no way out of this place except by retracing your steps, negotiating all those tunnels a second time. Return to Queimadas or Pico das Pedras to finish, or end elsewhere by linking with Walk 24 or Walk 25.

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